The Land of my Grandparents

Itinerary

We are travelling with Travel the Unknown. Here is our itinerary. For security reasons I’ve obscured any reference to exact dates. Personal notes are added in green.

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As the site is now password controlled I have updated this itinerary with dates and hotel details. You can also view/print the final itinerary, including flight details, here.


MYSTICAL MYANMAR

Glittering temples, ancient culture & breathtaking beauty

Day 1 – Sat, 12 Nov: Arrival

Arrive in Yangon and be met by a Travel The Unknown representative where you will be transferred to hotel.

You will embark on a half day heritage walk around Yangon in the afternoon.(Starting Time: 13:00 / Ending Time: 17:00)

RangoonYangon downtown is unique with much of its colonial-era architecture still standing. You find one of Asia’s most impressive collections of late nineteenth and early twentieth- century buildings, religious and secular. Starting after breakfast or lunch this walking tour will take you through downtown Yangon, focusing on its old colonial buildings. Your guide will walk you through the back streets in a relaxed tempo and explain you the history of each building some of them empty, some getting restored and some used for different purposes than when built. This walk along the streets of Yangon will at least architecturally take you a step back in time. The walk ends with a drink at Rangoon Tea House, a cosy restaurant on lower Pansodan street, a new place where many of Yangon’s expatriates of today meet up for a drink or a meal. Return to hotel and overnight in Yangon.

supreme-court-rangoonThere are many colonial buildings scattered around Yangon. The buildings are evidence of the history of British rule. Downtown Yangon is known for the highest number of colonial period buildings in Southeast Asia. The most iconic of these buildings include the former Secretariat buildings, the City Hall, the High Court, the Strand Hotel and the former Inland Water Transport building.

Overnight in Yangon Heritage Hotel, Yangon.

Day 2 – Sun, 13 Nov: Yangon – Lashio – Hsipaw

After breakfast, you will be transferred to the airport to connect to your flight to Lashio. Transfer from Lashio to Hsipaw (90 minutes) where you will have the rest of the day free at leisure. Overnight in Hsipaw.

hsipawOnce a Shan Royal City, the town of Hsipaw lies on the Duthawadi River. It was known as being  one  of  the  most  powerful  and  wealthy  Saopha  states  in  Shan  State.  The  Saophas played  an  important  role  in  both  in  state  and  national  politics  from  the  11th  century  to the 1962 military coup. Local historians claim that in the 19th century, Prince Sao So Chae was knighted by Queen Victoria. In contrast to this, the last Prince, Sao Kya Seng, became the tragic hero is his wife’s novel. The town is home to Bowgoy Pagoda and is surrounded by awe inspiring natural beauty, making it the ideal base for anyone wanting to visit the hill tribes.

Total travel time : 90 minutes
Overnight in Mr. Charles, Hsipaw

Day 3 – Mon, 14 Nov: Hsipaw

In  the  late  afternoon  your  guide  will  take  you  for  a  2.5  hour  walk  through  a  panoramic scenery of paddy fields and other seasonal crops passing small creeks, Shan villages and local  schools  and  monasteries.  The  guide  will  explain  in  detail  about  Shan  life  around Hsipaw  and  show  you  some  home  industries  like  cheroot  (cigar)  rolling  and  bamboo weaving. He will explain why each Shan village has a spirit house build at the entrance of the village and make sure you will get to know the spirit of the local people in Northern Shan state. Overnight in Hsipaw.

Overnight in Mr. Charles, Hsipaw

Day 4 – Tue, 15 Nov: Hsipaw – Kyaukme

kyaukmeTake  a  local  bus  to  Kyaukme  departing  at  about  07:30,  where  a  Travel  The  Unknown representative will meet and transfer you to your guest house. After check-in, you will take a trip by taxi in the surrounding areas of Kyaukme visiting at least one hill tribe.

Kyaukme is a town in the North of Shan State and has been the main trading centre for tea from Tawngpeng since before British colonial rule. During the Second World War, bombing raids were carried out on the station, tracks, roads and Japanese troops in the area. The town  has  some  beautiful  colonial  buildings  and  busy  markets  and  is  well  known  for  its trekking.  The hills that surround the town are inhabited by the Palaung, an ethnic minority that  also  live  in  the  Yunnan  province  of  China  as  well  as  Northern  Thailand.  They  are followers of Thervada Buddhism and temples can be found in many towns as the religion is present in the everyday life of the Palaung.

Total travel time : 1 hour
Overnight in One Love Hotel, Kyaukme

Day 5 – Wed, 16 Nov: Kyaukme – Pyin Oo Lin – Mandalay

In the morning you have some free time to explore the town with its colonial buildings and the busy and colourful market where we suggest you buy food and drinks for the train. A 10 minute walk will lead you to the train station. We have reserved seats for you till Pyin Oo Lwin station on the spectacular train crossing the mighty Gokteik Viaduct which was constructed in 1901 by constructors from the Pennsylvania Steel company and was once the second highest railway bridge in the world.

Thgokteike train departs at 11:05 from Kyaukme station and will pass cross the Gokteik viaduct around 13:30. Through spectacular mountain scenery the train will slowly move forward over the old railway track passing small villages and towns where vendors will enter the train to sell drinks and local snacks. Expected arrival time in the Pyin Oo Lwin – the former summer  capital  for  the  British  colonial  administration  –  around  16:00,  but  be  warned: there might be delays with a historic railway like this one. To make sure you get out at the correct station please inform other passengers that you need to get out at Pyin Oo Lwin station.

We suggest you leave around 10:15 for Kyaukme train station which is about 10 minutes walk from the guest house. Somebody from the guest house will walk with you and give you the train ticket. If you don’t want to walk you can hire a motorbike taxi with trailer. You could also go to the Kyaukme market in the morning and buy water, biscuits, bananas, etc. for your lunch in the train today. Buying a small pillow to sit on could be useful as well as the train has only hard wooden seats.

Upon arrival, be met by a private taxi who will transfer you to the hotel in Mandalay (1.5 hour drive). Overnight in Mandalay.

Mandalay is a relatively young city, aged 150 years old. It was founded as the capital of the Burmese empire in 1861 and saw the last king of Burma before the British took over in 1885.
 
Total travel time : 6½ hours
Overnight in Ayarwaddy River View Hotel, Mandalay

Day 6 – Thu, 17 Nov: Mandalay

Morning  free  (additional  sightseeing  to  Mahamuni  Temple  and  Amarapura  can  also  be arranged).  In  the  afternoon,  proceed  on  a  half  day  boat  cruise,  which  will  take  you  to Mingun. There, you will visit the Mingun ‘Unfinished Pagoda’ and the Mingun Bell. Later, return  to  Mandalay  to  discover  the  lively  Yadanabon  market  which  starts  around  15:00 before returning ot the hotel at about 18:00. Overnight in Mandalay.

mandalayAmarapura literally translates to ‘City of Immortality’ and is located on the left bank of the Irrawaddy River. It was claimed as the capital of Myanmar by King Bodawpaya in 1783 – intended to represent a fresh start for the people upon his accession to the throne. There are many workshops which make Longyis (traditional waist garments) using the loom.

The Mingun Unfinished Pagoda was a huge project started by King Bodawpaya in 1790, of which he intended it to be the largest pagoda in the country. The pagoda was left at a third of  the  intended  height  when  the  king  died  in  1819,  thus  earning  the  title  of  Mingun Unfinished Pagoda.

In 1810 the enormous Mingun Bell, that King Bodawpaya had requested to go with his gigantic soon to be finished pagoda, was built. Weighing 90 tons it is the second heaviest hung, uncracked, functioning bell in the world behind the Chinese bell of good luck which was  recently  cast  in  2000.  The  bell  is  about  four  metres  high  and  over  five  metres  in diameter  at  the  bottom.  It  can  fit  people  standing  inside  and,  if  you  desire,  you  can  get someone to ring it so that you can hear it ring from the inside.

Overnight in Ayarwaddy River View Hotel, Mandalay

Day 7 – Fri, 18 Nov: Mandalay – Bagan

paganAfter breakfast you will be transferred to the airport to connect to your flight to Bagan. Upon arrival, you will be met by a Travel The Unknown representative and will set off for a full day tour of Bagan by car with an experienced guide who will show you the best known temples of the area. You start the day climbing a pagoda to get an first impressive view over the whole area. From here the guide plans his way to some of  the other amazing temples that have been here for hundreds of years. Places like the Ananda, Dhammayangyi, Sulamani, and Thatbyinnyu will certainly impress you. Lunch will be taken at a local restaurant and at around 16:00 you continue the tour by horse cart to Pyathagyi pagoda for sunset with some refreshing drinks served. Oh… we forgot to mention the best part of this tour; whenever you see a temple you like, just ask you guide to stop to have a look at it – simply pick your own favourite temple. Overnight in Bagan.

Bagan is  an  ancient  city  located  in  central  Myanmar  and  was  the  capital  of  the  first Myanmar Empire. There were many monuments built in Bagan during this time but sadly were damaged by invaders and by the fleeing king who needed the materials for defence structures  instead. The ruins  today are a place of worship and, being one of the richest archaeological sites in South-east Asia, Bagan has been a popular tourist destination for almost a thousand years.

Overnight in Thazin Garden Hotel, Bagan

Day 8 – Sat, 19 Nov: Bagan

Today is free to explore Bagan at your leisure. Overnight in Bagan.

Overnight in Thazin Garden Hotel, Bagan

Day 9  – Sun, 20 Nov: Bagan – Heho – Kalaw

kalawBreakfast at the hotel before being transferred to Nyaung U airport for flight to Heho and transfer to Kalaw. On arrival transfer to the elephant conservation area. Depending on your arrival time and how long you want to walk through the forest (walks from 30 min up to 4-5 hours are possible – simply let us know what you prefer) you will find yourself in the natural surroundings of Asian jungle. Your guide is specialised in elephant conservation and will take you for a rewarding day in the forest surrounding Kalaw encountering elephants, their mahouts and people living in the surrounding area.

A  delicious  lunch  with  local  specialities  (often  from  Nepalese  origin)  will  be  served  in  a traditional village, in the jungle or in the camp. After lunch it is time to help the mahout washing  and  feeding  the  elephant.  Walk  back  in  the  afternoon  to  the  main  road  and continue by car back to Kalaw town. Rest of evening free. Overnight in Kalaw.

Young tourism professionals originating from Kalaw decided to set-up a project in Kalaw that is focused on protecting the nature, elephants and traditions of local people living in an  area  close  to  Kalaw.  In  a  large  part  of  this  private  protected  forest  nature  can  grow undisturbed creating a natural habitat for animals that could otherwise be easily hunted down  and  killed.  The  project  includes  creating  a  natural  environment  for  some  of Myanmar’s elephants from this part of the world and helping the local population to grow out of the vicious circle of poverty through education and micro finance.

Kalaw is a hill town in the Shan State of Myanmar. It is located in Kalaw Township in the Taunggyi District. The town was popular with the British during colonial rule and used as a British hill-station. The town offers some of the best trekking in Myanmar and is surrounded by  a  tranquil  forest.  It  has  a  variety  of  cultures  thanks  to  large  populations  of  Nepalese Gurkhas, Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims whose descendents came to Kalaw to build roads and railways during British colonial rule. It was also the main setting of the novel ‘The Art of Hearing Heartbeats’ by Jan-Philipp Sendker.

Overnight in Royal Kalaw Hills Resort, Kalaw

Kalaw is where my grandfather built a house to stay in during the summer. It is now the Royal Kalaw Hills Resort hotel and we will be staying there when we’re in Kalaw.

Day 10 – Mon, 21 Nov: Kalaw – Lake Inle

inleSet off by bike from Kalaw to Lake Inle (optional). Mountain bikes are ready for you to start a 4-5 hour biking trip to Indein. The trip is mostly off-road and technically easy with most of the  roads  flat  or  downhill  although  the  first  hour  some  parts  are  going  uphill.  Biking through numerous Pa O tribal villages in an area where few foreigners have been before is a great experience. Stop on the way to enjoy the fantastic views over the lake and the Shan countryside.  Lunch  is  included  in  a  local  village  and  at  the  end  of  the  trip  we  visit  the ancient ruins of Indein. From Indein we continue to your hotel by private motorboat where your luggage is already delivered in the room. Overnight at Lake Inle.

People who don’t want to bike will travel by car (about 1.5 hour) and private boat (about 1 hour) to Indein for lunch and continue to the hotel.

Inle Lake is  the  second  largest  lake  in  Myanmar.  The  70,000  people  of  Inle  Lake,  the Intha, live in four cities around the lake and in small villages along the lake’s shores, and on the  lake  itself,  building  their  houses  on  stilts  and  travelling  across  the  lake  using  their unique  style  of  leg-rowing.  The  locals  bind  together  water  hyacinth  to  cultivate  floating gardens that drift around the waters. The lake is also home to over twenty species of snail and nine species of fish not found anywhere else in the world.

Overnight in Golden Island Cottages, Inle Lake

Day 11 – Tue, 22 Nov: Lake Inle

Breakfast at the hotel.In the south of the lake the ruins of Indein are certainly worth a visit. Partly covered by vegetation the area looks like a pagoda forest. We walk about 1 hour to enjoy  a  fantastic  view  over  the  lake  and  visit  a  school  in  Tha  Ley  village.  A  homemade cooked lunch is served by a local family in their house. We continue towards the Nam Pan village for a very interesting trip going local with a small canoe. Whenever you are tired peddling yourself we continue by motorboat back to your hotel. Overnight at Inle Lake.

Other must-see parts of Lake Inle are the floating villages and markets. Around 80,000 people live on the lake in “floating” villages which are collections of houses built on stilts and organised into rows of neighbourhoods. These are home to people from the Intha Tribe but many local tribes come down from the surrounding mountains for the market which also takes place on the lake.

Overnight in Golden Island Cottages, Inle Lake.

Day 12 – Wed, 23 Nov: Lake Inle – Yangon

rangoon02After  breakfast  you  will  be  transferred  to  Heho  to  connect  to  your  flight  to  Yangon.  On arrival in Yangon, you will travel to Shwedagon Pagoda for a half-day sightseeing tour.

So what is behind the golden façade of the Shwedagon Pagoda? During this interactive half day tour we take you through the back door and show you the full history of the pagoda, the daily life of all people living in the immediate surroundings of the pagoda and a deeper insight in the Buddhist religion and how the spiritual belief is mixed with the belief in nats – the Myanmar spirits. An intriguing half day tour starting from the bottom of the hill and passing the workshops, markets and monasteries which will be useful or even essential to understand more of the country during the rest of your journey. The tour includes a visit to a fortune teller and a Burmese lunch. Overnight in Yangon.

The  2,500  year-old Shwedagon  Pagoda is  the  most  impressive  and  sacred  Buddhist pagoda for the people of Myanmar. Standing just under 110m, it can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. It is stunning with its gold plate coating that reflects the sun. The crown is tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. At the very top, the diamond tip is a 76  carat  diamond.  This  was  also  the  stage  for  a  speech  given  by  pro-democracy  leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, in 1988.

Overnight in East Hotel, Yangon

Day 13 – Thu, 24 Nov: Yangon – Kyaikhtiyo

Leave around 07:30 from your hotel in Yangon by private car and guide and visit (if wanted) after  an  hour  the  war  cemetery  in  Taukkyan  where  thousands  of  prisoners  of  war  who worked on the death railway in Kayin and Mon State are commemorated.

You continue towards Mon State. On arrival in Kyaiktiyo basecamp (around 11 am) – total about 3-4 hours drive you go up the hill by trucks serving mainly local pilgrims.

kyaiktiyoOne of the most important pilgrimage sites for Myanmar Buddhist and maybe one of the strangest (or unbelievable) sites for foreign tourists: the Golden Rock (Kyaiktiyo Pagoda). A big rock with a small pagoda built on top of it, is balancing on the edge of a mountain and looks  as  if  it  could  tumble  into  the  ravine  below  at  any  moment  (luckily  some  hairs  of Buddha  precisely  placed  in  the  pagoda  prevent  the  rock  from  falling).  The  site  can  be reached after a short walk (1.5 hours) or a long walk (about 7 hours) and rumour has it that taking the long route for 3 times in a lifetime will bring good luck. Surrounding the Golden Rock are numerous local teashops, resting places and monasteries as well as local souvenir shops (many of them offering traditional Myanmar medicine made from indigenous animals found by Kayin hunters living in the jungle in this region).

You have the whole afternoon to visit the site and return by truck (about 30 min) (or on foot if you prefer) to Kin Pun basecamp. Overnight in Kyaikhtiyo.

Drive to the stunning Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda, also known as Golden Rock, due to it being built on   the   top   of   a   granite   boulder   covered   with   gold   leaves   pasted   on   by   Buddhist devotees. According to legend, the Golden Rock itself is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair. The balancing rock seems to defy gravity, as it perpetually appears to be on  the  verge  of  rolling  down  the  hill.  The  rock  and  the  pagoda  are  at  the  top  of  Mt. Kyaikhtiyo.  It  is  the  third  most  important  Buddhist  pilgrimage  site  in  Myanmar  after  the Shwedagon  Pagoda  and  the  Mahamuni  Pagoda.  Legend  also  mentions  that  pilgrims undertaking   the   pilgrimage   by   trekking   from   the   Kinpun   base   camp   three   times consecutively in a year will be blessed with wealth and recognition.

Kyaikhtiyo  (Golden  Rock) is  a  well-known  Buddhist  pilgrimage  site  in  Mon  State, Myanmar. It is a small pagoda (7.3m) built on the top of a granite boulder covered with gold   leaves   pasted   on   by   devotees.   According   to   legend,   the   Golden   Rock   itself   is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair. The rock seems to defy gravity, as it perpetually appears to be on the verge of rolling down the hill. The rock and the pagoda are at  the  top  of  Mt.  Kyaikhtiyo.  It  is  the  third  most  important  Buddhist  pilgrimage  site  in Myanmar after the Shwedagon Pagoda (Yangon) and the Mahamuni Pagoda (Mandalay). A glimpse of the “gravity defying” Golden Rock is believed to be enough of an inspiration for any person to turn to Buddhism.

Overnight in Golden Sunrise, Kyaikhtiyo

Day 14 – Fri, 25 Nov: Kyaikhtiyo – Mawlamyine

mawlamyineTravel by car to Mawlamyine. On arrival visit a local house and enjoy a home-cooked lunch. In  the  afternoon,  proceed  to  Mon  Museum  to  learn  more  about  the  rich  Mon  culture. Continue  to  the  nearby  village  of  Hpa  Ouk,  famous  for  its  weaving  and  traditional  Mon
sarongs. Overnight in Mawlamyine.

Mawlamyine is  one  of  the  Orient’s  most  picturesque  ports.  In  the  heart  of  Lower Myanmar,  it  is  famous  for  being  the  site  of  Kipling’s  Pagoda.  Not  far  from  here  is  the Thanbyuzayat Cemetery, a memorial to the Allied troops lost in World War Two. Accessible only by road and a full day’s drive from Yangon, this town sees few visitors but the journey itself  is  worthwhile,  passing  through  Mon  and  Karen  villages  and  stopping  at  various interesting cave temples en route. The city features in the opening lines of Kipling’s poem ‘Mandalay’ and as the setting for George Orwell’s 1936 memoir ‘Shooting an Elephant’.
 
Total travel time : 4 hours
Overnight in Cinderella Hotel, Mawlamyine

My grandmother was born in Moulmein (Mawlamyine), though I don’t have any more information than that.

Day 15 – Sat, 26 Nov: Mawlamyine – Hpa An

Breakfast  at  the  hotel  and  you  will  be  picked  up  around  08:00  am  to  visit  the  Seindon Mibaya Monastery.

The last king of Myanmar, at the palace in Mandalay, came to power by killing many of the rival heirs to the throne at the end of the 19th century. Queen Seindon escaped and moved to what was called Moulmein in that period and became a Buddhist nun till her death (her tomb  is  in  the  compound  in  one  of  the  nunneries).  She  built  the  Seindon  Mibaya Monastery  in  Mawlamyine  which  is  very  fine  example  of  architecture  in  the  original Mandalay   palace   and   has   magnificent   woodcarvings   and   other   decorations.   It’s   a monastery so beautiful that one could actually call it a museum.

Hpa AnContinue to the Ni Paya to have a view over the city and river before heading to the jetty and board a private motor boat that will bring you to Hpa An. Around 10:00 you will take a private boat for a cruise over the Thanlwin (Salween) River – one of the longest rivers in Myanmar ending in Mon State. After about an hour you will arrive at a small jetty in U Na Auk  village  from  where  you  will  get  on  a  tuk-tuk  to  visit  the  amazing carvings  and decorations or the temples and ordination hall donated to the village by Mr Na Auk. Mr Na Auk was a Mon trader, living in this area in the British period and he was famous for his intelligence to trade and win from the big British companies and has been a symbol of being  patriotic,  have  a  good  trading  sense  and  be  kind  to  his  fellow  country  man.  In modern school books his story is taught and everybody in the country knows his name and stories how he offered free transportation for the local people in his area, offered food and managed to compete with the British traders.

You  continue  the  boat  trip  over  the  Thanlwin  River  with  spectacular  sights  on  Zwekabin and  other  limestone  mountains  rising  from  the  rice  fields.  Lunch  is  served  on  board  the boat (total boat trip about 4-5 hours). Arrive around 16:00 in Hpa An and transfer by car to the hotel which is situated at the bottom of one of the limestone mountains. Overnight at Hpa An.

Hpa An is the small but bustling capital of Kayin state, located close to the border with Thailand  and  is  rarely  visited  by  western  travellers.  Hpa  An  is  surrounded  by  limestone mountains  with  the  tallest  being  Mt.  Zwekabin  where  close  by  you  can  visit  impressive Kawgun  Cave.  Hidden  away  in  the  hills  the  caves  were  discovered  in  1975  and  contains thousands of 7th century tiny clay Buddhas and carvings, hidden precariously over the walls and roof of the main cave.
 
Overnight in Thiri Hpa An Hotel, Hpa An

Day 16 – Sun, 27 Nov: Hpa An – Yangon

Be prepared for a soft adventure day with a lot of activities and a chance to experience real Kayin lifestyle. We start the day by going for a leisurely trip by kayak through the paddy fields for half an hour or so. If you don’t feel like paddling yourself, let us know and we arrange a local Kayin man to paddle for you.

Saddar CaveWe leave the kayaks behind and continue on foot through the forest visiting Kayin villages for a leisurely walk of about an hour. This is a great trip to get a feel for the real Kayin life in the  jungle.  From  here  we  continue  for  another  1,5  hours  passing  several  other  Kayin villages.  We  then  take  the  kayaks  again  for  half  an  hour  bringing  us  to  a  beautiful traditional local house where a home cooked lunch awaits you, served by the local host.

Afterwards we continue by kayak to our starting point from where we continue to explore the  famous  Saddar  cave.  Note:  as  the  creeks  in  this  rural  part  are  quite  shallow  we  use small kayaks to travel around which means that you could get wet – slippers, shorts and a t-shirt are recommended. It is possible to shorten the village walk.

We continue driving back to Yangon (approx 4.5 hours) leaving two very interesting states in Myanmar behind us. Arrive in Yangon around dinner time. Overnight in Yangon.

Travel The Unknown wants to support local communities and therefore we decided to have this part of the tour accompanied by local people who have limited English skills but love their area and will lead you though their community with pride.

Overnight in Yangon Heritage Hotel, Yangon

PatheinDay 17 – Mon, 28 Nov: Yangon

Free day in Yangon. We booked an extra day to relax and unwind and get to know Yangon better.

Overnight in Yangon Heritage Hotel, Yangon

My mother was born in Bassein (Pathein), outside Rangoon (Yangon). I will investigate the possibility of visiting there.

Day 18 – Tue, 29 Nov: Departure

Transfer to the airport to catch your flight home.


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2 Responses to Itinerary

  • Done already! – Thanks. I tried to look judicial, but somebody made me laugh…

  • Hi Toby

    Make sure you get a selfie outside the High Court, where Grandfather worked.

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