Rangoon/Yangon to Kyalkhtiyo via Golden Rock Pagoda
24th November
After stopping for an excellent lunch in Lepya we drove on for about half an hour to visit the Golden Rock Pagoda. We parked at what the guide rather ominously started calling “base camp”. There we got onto a truck with seats to actually go up the hill. The rock itself is at an altitude of 1,100 metres and the road up to it is very windy and precipitous in places. The 40-50 passengers on board enjoyed this immensely, all joining in calls of “Who-o-o-ah!” and laughing hysterically.
When we reached the top there was still a climb to go. We bravely forged on, joining monks, pilgrims and other devotees as well as porters carrying luggage (there are a couple of hotels at the summit) and some visitors in sedan chairs being borne aloft by four bearers. It was impressive to watch the routine used to remove sandals while keeping the passenger aloft at shoulder-height!
The rock itself is impressive, though I’m not sure I completely buy the legend about it being held in place by a single hair from buddha’s head. I’m currently working on an alternative explanation which I hope to share with you shortly.
The clear mountain air, crystalline evening light and surrounding ambience of devotion made this a fascinating and moving experience. Whole families were there, many making camp on the marble floor of the concourse preparing to stay the night – apparently the early morning is the most auspicious time to make an offering. There was a restrained and respectful carnival atmosphere which was quite remarkable and people were united in the purpose of their visit.
We decided not to stay to see the sunset over the rock as it would have meant taking the return bus in the darkness, and there was already some apprehension about the return trip, relying quite heavily as it would on the conditon of the truck, its brakes and the driver.
However all was well and we duly arrived at the Golden Sunrise Hotel in Kyalkhtiyo to spend the night before going on to Moulmein in the morning.
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